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Has anyone done any testing with different types of tubing? Is metal, PVC, or something else the best?
 

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I have only done metal. Aluminium, Copper, and electrical conduit (not sure what that is, steel maybe?). PVC seems like it would be really fast but you couldnt get the length you need due to sagging. Unless you braced it somehow... or somebody knows something I dont.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have only done metal. Aluminium, Copper, and electrical conduit (not sure what that is, steel maybe?). PVC seems like it would be really fast but you couldnt get the length you need due to sagging. Unless you braced it somehow... or somebody knows something I dont.
I can see that PVC could be a problem due to sag. I also saw that you cab buy fiberglass impregnated tubing. I imagine that it would be stiff enough. I also see that DragonPlate makes Carbon Fiber tubes in .40" and .54" ID too. That would be nice and light... and strong!
 

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I made them out of electrical conduit as a kid. My dad showed me how to make homemade darts too. You'd probably laugh if you had seen them, but, crude as they were, they worked.
 

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I like 1/2 inch electrical conduit because i get a nice 7 footer that doesn't sag.I believe that would be @ .62 cal bore.The mouth piece being a PVC connector. A safety is formed after cutting with a tubing cutter. A little camaflauge duct tape and your ready. Looks awsome and best of all its dirt cheap.
 

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I like 1/2 inch electrical conduit because i get a nice 7 footer that doesn't sag.I believe that would be @ .62 cal bore.The mouth piece being a PVC connector. A safety is formed after cutting with a tubing cutter. A little camaflauge duct tape and your ready. Looks awsome and best of all its dirt cheap.
Yep the PVC mouthpieces are great. That is what I always use. My conduit BG got bent so I need to make another. Good thing the total cost is only $2
 

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I like the electrical conduit also. I made one from PVC and to fix the sag put 2 90 degree metal edging pieces centered and about 1 foot long. That defeated the weight savings but it shot very nice.
 

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Do you happen to have a pic handy of the pvc mouthpiece your using? Thanks.
 

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Thanks for the pic, I'll have to have a look when my aluminum tubing arrives and see if I can get a good fit.
 

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To fix the sagging in pvc, heat up a 6in section of 3/4in pvc (for 1/2in) over the stove or heat gun until it is soft and pliable. Quickly slide the 3/4 in piece over the 1/2in until it is in the middle....this should fix the sagging

watch here
 

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PIPE & TUBING
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Aluminium Pipe and Tubing are hollow extrusions that are symmetrical with uniform wall thickness except as affected by corner radii.

The cross section view of tubing can be round, hexagonal, octagonal, elliptical, square or rectangular with sharp or rounded corners. Within the aluminium extrusion product type classification "tube" there are two categories: "as extruded tube" and "drawn tube." Tube is sold in two configurations: coil and straight lengths.

Pipe is "as extruded straight length tube" in standardized combinations of outside diameter and wall thickness, commonly designated by "Nominal Pipe Sizes" and "ANSI Schedule Numbers."

Drawn Tube is tube brought to final dimensions by drawing through a die. The drawing process provides exceptional dimensional control and a superior finish. The drawing process is also cold work that provides tubing it's temper.

DRAWN TUBE

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"Drawn tube" for most applications is a better material choice than "as extruded tube".

Aluminium tubing are hollow extrusions that are symmetrical with uniform wall thickness except as affected by corner radii. Refer to Pipe and Tubing for the basics.

Drawn tube obtains its mechanical properties, characteristics, and dimensions by drawing "as extruded tube" through a die. In addition to adding strength, the drawing process provides exceptional dimensional control and a superior surface finish that would not be attainable in an extruded product of the same alloy and size. Drawing also enhances the bending, flaring and formability of tubing. Ovality can be controlled more precisely in the drawing process than in the extrusion process. Tempers for non-heat treatable alloys (3xxx series) are imparted through the drawing process (cold work/strain-hardened). The heat treatable alloys (6xxx Series) obtain their temper through heat treating at the conclusion of the drawing process.
 

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I have made guns from copper, and pvc, with some small bore guns from aluminum arrow shafts with good results, but I have never used the metal electrical conduit due to the seam that runs down the inside, I was afraid this would affect my speed considerably. What do you guys do about the seam, or is it not enough to affect the dart?
 

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I have made guns from copper, and pvc, with some small bore guns from aluminum arrow shafts with good results, but I have never used the metal electrical conduit due to the seam that runs down the inside, I was afraid this would affect my speed considerably. What do you guys do about the seam, or is it not enough to affect the dart?
Seamless tubing really is a must.

That seam is usually pretty rough on the inside even though it's been ground down on the outside.

You'll be dealing with a lot of friction, damage to darts and lack of a good air seal using seamed tubing.

You have two options with dealing with seamed tubing, ream it out to size or polish it out with a bore hone. Both a long and painful process and do require specialised tools.
 

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I have thought about inserting thin walled pvc into metal conduit for a longer gun without a seam or barrel sag, kinda combine them for the best of both worlds, although it would be heavy, but I have never got around to seeing if it is even possible with the various sizes of pipe.
 

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I think PVC would shoot very fast. Faster than aluminium. I will have to try the brace trick. Or stuff it into a bigger metal pipe.
 
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