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Howdy, I'm new to this forum, and long been a part time hobby blow-gunner. Recently saw Tim wells blowgun hunting video, killing a bear with a steel broadhead dart, right into its heart. And for the first time, I also wanted to go hunt some squirrels with homemade broadhead darts for a start. And here's the question, wouldn't the steel broadhead scratch the hell outta barrel? there's no sabot or anything that protects the dart from dragging all the way through the bore. searched this forum and had no luck finding anything regarding this. and also, how important is barrel finish to accuracy, anyway? Would velvety-smooth honed barrel would vastly improve accuracy?

Thanks!

BTW is this forum dead or something? some non-sense shill postings and p0rn site ads are everywhere, yet no one deals with it, it seems :/
 

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Ok since no one replies to my topic, I did my own testings recently, and heres the results, though not sure who's gonna read this

Till this day, I've never fired broadhead darts, only bamboo skewers and concrete nails, mostly for target shooting. So for my new upcoming hunting blowgun build, I wanted to experiment with some things

I made an experimental 20mm(apx 7.87 cal) 4 foot long BG , sole purpose of determining the max. caliber for my lung capacity, and a experimental equally big, huge, literal 'dart'

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it's SK-5 steel, 2mm thick, besh wedge grind geometry. not so much pics in making, since it only took an hour...

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after heat treat.. quenched and tempered to chocolate brown, then filed down to final dimension

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cut a green fresh oak sapling. it was extremely soft to work with. I completely shaped it and quick-dried it up with oil lamp

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after mounting broadhead on shaft

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intentionally made it tapered, to make it front-heavy. With kitchen scale, dart weights around 8~9gram, which is quite heavy for a blowgun dart.

So how did it turn out, anyway? From this test I could've made 3 conclusions

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1. yes, I know. you can't see from this blurry pic, but steel broadhead dart DOES scratch the bore. Again, I know, this is far too obvious, don't even worth an experiment, but I just wanted to test out and see it myself. In this experiment, with my copper tubing BG, sometimes even the broadhead dug into the barrel and stuck, I had to ram it out with a stick. After few of this happening, I inspected my tubing. What I've found was a deep gouging marks, and highly visible linear scratch lines.

I have no idea how cold steel blowguns hold up even if they're made out of aluminium. maybe this scratching problem doesn't really count as long as the darts are light enough so that they do not dig into the barrel as they accelerate. still they would scratch the bore, which is quite inevitable without a protective sabot

but to completely avoid scratching, one may use bone/antler/non-ferrous metal broadheads as alternatives.

2. 20mm bore is too big to blow. With this caliber, the drag of the dart cone was so huge, as it flies thru, I could even see it wiggle side to side, almost like a koi fish.

and with the lighter darts, such as bamboo skewer, I could not exert enough power through as I could with smaller caliber blowguns. guess it has something to do with not only the total volume of the inner bore, but also with peak pressure. Or maybe the dart had lost all its energy, again, due to huge drag on its wide tail cone.

One could solve this problem if discarding sabot is used, but then, I have no idea of how that could even be possible with such a light projectile as blowgun dart is.

3. Still, in close range, the dart was powerful enough to penetrate a book, more than 100 pages. (sorry, I forgot to take pics) But what about it? Worthless if it can only slowly thrust up to 10 feet at max. As said, drag seems to be too high. Presumably, .625 cal is best compromise for my lung volume, power and aerodynamics.

so for me, .625 cal, 4 feet long blowgun would be ideal choice. hmm still, I wonder would longer BG will result in better efficiency, though. Anyways, I'll come back with more results as I progress.

btw if any one of administrator in this forum is viewing this, i do not mind this post being moved to 'darts board'. but you know, everything is relevant with blowgun, and I'm doing all this for sole purpose of hunting
 

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You're making it way too difficult. Why does your broad head not have a sharp point?. Messiest, shitiest, dart construct I've ever seen. No wonder you're having trouble.
Oooff god damn! thats one straight feedback right in my butt eeh?

Yes i know, admittedly this is way too complicated, too far fetched for a blowgun.. and incidentally, I just got myself back into blowgunning only recently, so I just wanted to give it a twist...which, obviously didn't worked out so well

and no, it has sharp point. google 'besh wedge' and you'll see what i mean... and I honed it with 600 grit diamond sharpener, so I can tell you, it IS sharp

right now im planning on going back to my 'normal' plan, which is to get and construct a 1.5 feet 0.625 cal BG out of seamless/316 SS tubing.. I'll update my progress as soon as I get it.

Also, let's not forget the topic of this thread.. don't you have any problem shooting broadhead darts(which in ur case, is exacto blade isn't it?) from your BG??

as said, i've never fired broadhead out of BG before this build, and as stated, mine got choked up in the middle, and marred the bore quite significantly.
 

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thats interesting, not even a single scratch??

I know, lots of blowgunners have been shooting broadhead darts through relatively softer barrel, but after this experiment I got a little squeamish letting heat treated steel glide through the bore... then let me ask you this; how important do you think the barrel finish is to accuracy?? do you hone your BG??

and guess what, yesterday I made this; another messiest, shittiest self made broadhead dart, this time with copper broadhead


total weight : slightly over 3g without obturator paper cone

total length : 170mm

broadhead width : 10mm

broadhead thickness : 1.2mm

I cut a small section of leftover pipe for my 20mm copper tubing BG, filed it into shape. Head secured with animal hide glue, wrapped with cotton thread, and secured the wrap with thin hide glue again

since this is just a pure copper, not a berylium copper or anything, indeed is pretty soft/ductile piece of metal. but don't get me wrong, even if its pure copper, it is both sharp/sturdy enough for a small game. After all, inuits also used copper broadheads for their arrows too.

next week, as soon as I get my pipe, I'll test shoot this dart out and come back with the results

btw, 14 inch for a dart sounds quite long, is there any reason for making the shaft that long?

btw... wondered what the krazy glue is, seems to be some kind of super glue I guess... for me, I like mine all natural...just saying
 

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Oh Why is my broadhead blunt, not pointy? simply for integrity,, it's my personal preference, since acute tips are quite fragile..prone to be damaged.. but you know, if you sharpen it enough, I don't think it would make any significant difference in penetration

only way to find out is to test. I made 2 of these copper broadheads, one with chisel tip(shown) and one with complete isosceles profile. since my backyard needs some 'pest control', yeah... I'll come back with the results

and no.. here where I live, we don't have krazy glue here... I'd just use hide glue or rice paste glue..traditional, strong, and no environmental pollution whatsoever..
 

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It's that flat squared off tip broad head that is scratching your barrel..No I don't "Hone" the barrel..I buy them already milled.. You're goofy as shit, talkin about environmental pollution and what not. I seriously doubt that you'll dispatch a single pest with that over thought out garbage you are producing. Have fun though.
 

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A scratch in the blowgun will not hurt the accuracy or power in the blowgunbecause it's not scratch over by the mouthpiece its catching all the air in the beginning.
 

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Crazy Glue, Super Glue, etc are all cyanoacrylate (CA) - Some are a thicker gel, others are runny, some dry really quickly, others are a 'hot' glue that dry incredibly fast.

To answer you directly. No, I personally have not honed my barrel. Not on the blowgun. The Cold Steel barrel is anodized/ coated in and out in one process and tends to be pretty durable. Not able to hone it. On an aluminum barrel, it would expose it and cause premature oxidation/ corrosion of the aluminum.

On my guns, and air guns, yes. I hone and clean them. But there is lead and higher velocities involved there.
 

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