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I grabbed a couple of 10ft sections of sched 40 from Rona's, and it's quality stuff, but it did have some minor bends

in it at certain points. I gave it a hit with my hot air gun and managed to straighten them out reasonably but noticed

and perhaps it's the way I'm going about it, the pvc still has a bit of a 'wow' in it, probably out about an 1/8 of an inch

when put on a flat surface.

I was going to ask you guys how straight are you getting your pvc after hitting it with heat? Am I in the ballpark and

shouldn't worry about being out a bit?
 

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My original BG was made from a 5.5 foot .626 cal electrical conduit tube that I painted inside to stop it from rusting. When I learned about using a sabot I started shooting all manner of undersized and odd things out of my BG. The double coned sabot was made from extruded milk jug plastic (HDPE) that is very tough stuff (use it often to make my regular cones) and the leading edge of the front cone started scraping the paint off the ID of my BG so I was getting rust splatter everywhere and that made me switch from my old faithful conduit blowgun to a PVC blowgun to eliminate the rust issue and still shoot sabots. My ultimate goal was to get a .626 cal Al tube but an Al tube was very difficult to find locally and I didn't want to order online. I did manage to find an Al tube locally.

The point of this already long story was getting rid of the sag in my new 5 foot 1/2" .62 cal. I did that by buying a 4 foot long piece of Al angle that was 1/16" thick X 3/4" X 1/2" and used wire ties to secure it to my PVC blowgun with 6" of blowgun sticking out passed each end of it. I also had a handle attached with a section of bicycle tube that held it nicely too. No sag and it shot well.

5Ft_PVC_TestBed.jpg


After using it a while I found I could have eliminated the wire tires and used smaller lengths of the bike tube instead. Because the bike tube attachment method worked so well it is no longer temporary.
 

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Some times a little bow can be useful. A perfectly straight long blow gun will sag to the forces of gravity when held horizontally. Now one with a bow in it will ride straight when held in one position .This can be determined by holding the blowgun horizontally and sighting down the interior with one eye and rotating it till you get a perfectly round light image Now mark the top of the bore and always hold in this postion when shooting,.This is what enabled natives to shoot extremely long blowguns
 

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My original BG was made from a 5.5 foot .626 cal electrical conduit tube that I painted inside to stop it from rusting. When I learned about using a sabot I started shooting all manner of undersized and odd things out of my BG. The double coned sabot was made from extruded milk jug plastic (HDPE) that is very tough stuff (use it often to make my regular cones) and the leading edge of the front cone started scraping the paint off the ID of my BG so I was getting rust splatter everywhere and that made me switch from my old faithful conduit blowgun to a PVC blowgun to eliminate the rust issue and still shoot sabots. My ultimate goal was to get a .626 cal Al tube but an Al tube was very difficult to find locally and I didn't want to order online. I did manage to find an Al tube locally.

The point of this already long story was getting rid of the sag in my new 5 foot 1/2" .62 cal. I did that by buying a 4 foot long piece of Al angle that was 1/16" thick X 3/4" X 1/2" and used wire ties to secure it to my PVC blowgun with 6" of blowgun sticking out passed each end of it. I also had a handle attached with a section of bicycle tube that held it nicely too. No sag and it shot well.

5Ft_PVC_TestBed.jpg


After using it a while I found I could have eliminated the wire tires and used smaller lengths of the bike tube instead. Because the bike tube attachment method worked so well it is no longer temporary.
Pelletor, what are you using in this photo for a mouthpiece? Got a close up shot? Thanks
 
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