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Hi All, I have been busy experimenting with various types/styles of darts. Some have been a waste of time and materials, others have proven quite good. Here are the better performers.

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Success is measured by how many times one can raise again after failing. A "failure" is one that will not attempt to even make an effort to even try.

Very resourceful knowing that acquiring materials there are hard to come by.

I like your darts man, they look killer !
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Wow, thanks Greg. Knowing the skill with which you produce your darts I take that as very high praise. :bow: I'm truly humbled!

Pelletor gave me some great tips for making those HDPE plastic cones you see there on the skewer shafts. i also applied the plastic cones to the marble stun darts with CA. Damn those things hit with authority! Those poor ferrel cats! LOL I smacked a lizard that went running along a concrete wall in my back yard the other day. I hit him just behind the ears on the run (a total fluke-got lucky). When I went to pick him up his whole head looked like a grape that someone had stepped on and squashed! A quick final shake of nerves and that was all she wrote for that guy. No more guano on our breakfast table!

A word of caution if using marbles for stun darts like these plastic coned ones - they work really well but they have a propensity to bounce back off hard surfaces. DANGER!!!!!

You were the one that helped me with the tape cones Greg. The short ones were pre GKU influence. The long tape cones are post GKU influence. What a difference. You rock! LOL. All these with the exception of the plastic milk jug cones were made with nothing more than a box knife and a file.

Mr. Fukiya with his video on YouTube provided the info needed on how to contruct his paper target darts. These things have me stumped tho. Some fly extremely well and shoot very accurately and others do not. I've tried to discern what the problem is but outwardly I don't see much difference. A little perplexing when you can't find the problem.

Well, I gotta run. I have more darts to make. Grin
 

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Mr. Fukiya with his video on YouTube provided the info needed on how to contruct his paper target darts. These things have me stumped tho. Some fly extremely well and shoot very accurately and others do not. I've tried to discern what the problem is but outwardly I don't see much difference. A little perplexing when you can't find the problem.

Well, I gotta run. I have more darts to make. Grin
They were the first type of darts I made and used with passion back when I started BGing. Until that old mighty variable the wind spoiled the party.

Some of the main problems with accuracy we had with this type of darts were as fallows:

Simply moisture, very large inside area accumulates a lot of H2o in spite of materials used.

If you're adding a tip that has some weight to it (CoG to low), try making them shorter in length, about 6 " long ? When we did they flew much better, less to no tail wobble with or without adding a tip on it.

The other cause for poor fight is the fit, need to make sure mainly that they are not to big.

Another cause sometimes is they maybe just the right ( .001" - .05" less then bore) size at first. But when one shot it in the proses of added pressure when blown, the cone dart unravels a bit in the bore and become that much larger. This occurs mostly when we skipped the edge gluing step in the proses.

Keep up the GOOD WORK, man !! :thumbsu:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have been wanting to try making the same Fukiya style darts from plastic film of some sort. In the local Soriana store here (Mexico's equivalent of WallMart) I found some plastic xmas wrapping paper. It was like a thick Saran wrap without the stretchy properties. It was so thin that even with multiple layers it had no real strength to it. But even as you stated, when the darts absorb moisture which these would not, I think there would still be a lot of condensation on the inside of the cone because the cones are so long and deep. That could be a little fiddly trying to dry up that condensation when air cannot readily get to it and help in the evaporation of it. The Fukiya style have shown great promise. They would be wonderful if not for this moisture problem. I also noticed the accuracy deteriorating shot after shot with more and more moisture being absorbed each time. Yet once dried they resumed their good performance. I for one don't want to be wiping out my bore every few shots or having to lay out my darts to dry but they are sweet darts when first shot and still dry.

In the photo you can see two types of skewer darts. One type with plastic cones and the other with duct tape. The duct tape ones have a stem of the shaft protruding past the end of the cone. I really like using these darts with my crutch tip mouthpiece as they allow me to place the dart into the barrel more consistantly than without that stem using just my fingers. I have not noticed any difference in accuracy between the duct tape darts with the stem vs the plastic cone darts without. Also, the cones stands up better as it is not being handled so much when the dart is loaded as the dart is being held by the stem and not the cone. Has this style ever been proven to be more or less accurate than the same dart with the cone farther back leaving no stem?
 

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" I for one don't want to be wiping out my bore every few shots "

I made a Bore Moisture Blowout Plug. I don't think I have a picture of it and it's at work so.

How to make:
Find something that a little heavy, I used an old 2" hex bit and glued and wrap it with a piece of teri cloth 2.5" to over lap the front and back of this bit. And long enough so that it's sized just loose enough to insert it into the BG and with an extra effort be blown out. It's a simple time saver and takes a little pain out of removing the moisture out when or as often needed. As you know will also prove to increase ones average !

Cheers my friend ~ Greg
 

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I love it! I have found though that the darts I make with the cone down the shaft so that the end of the skewer sticks out ... do not fly right. But if the cone is right at the end of the skewer I have no problems. Any ideas on that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I love it! I have found though that the darts I make with the cone down the shaft so that the end of the skewer sticks out ... do not fly right. But if the cone is right at the end of the skewer I have no problems. Any ideas on that?
Hmmm I'm thinking something might be askew (catch the punn?) with ur cones as mine are flying very well indeed. I just have not had the chance to test them against the normal ones with the cones right to the end of the skewer shaft to see if one type shoots better than the other. But I sure like the shaft out the back for pushing them down into the bore consistently. I am liking them.
 

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I love it! I have found though that the darts I make with the cone down the shaft so that the end of the skewer sticks out ... do not fly right. But if the cone is right at the end of the skewer I have no problems. Any ideas on that?
Hmmm I'm thinking something might be askew (catch the punn?) with ur cones as mine are flying very well indeed. I just have not had the chance to test them against the normal ones with the cones right to the end of the skewer shaft to see if one type shoots better than the other. But I sure like the shaft out the back for pushing them down into the bore consistently. I am liking them.
Thats why i liked them too. However the cones at the end fly much better for me. But the difference is only noticeable after about 15 yards or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Maybe it is your shaft length? Mine run around 11 inches with the cones to the rear and 10 inches with cone forward and exposed stem. I was just thinking if your shaft was shorter it may not be as stable as a longer one such as these lengths I'm using. Any chance you have a bent shaft? (keep it clean) grin

I'm suggesting the obvious here and I'm sure you have already checked this stuff. Mine fly well up to and including a 10 metre distance. Beyond that I don't know how they would behave. Being made from skewers and they are fairly light I suspect they would peter out quite quickly beyond 10 metres.
 
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