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Hello Michel,

Thanks for posting videos on how you make your Darts online. The cone cuter you designed is very innovative I've been using it for my tape cones also a lot easer and consistent size fitting.

I have a question if you don't mind answering about where is your center of gravity (CoG) on your darts located ? Some say 30% and others say 40%.
 

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Hi,

fqt7-7v-db8e.jpg

the dart on the top:
Brass tip 3mm, 1,35g
Carbon rod 2mm x 125mm
Carbon tube 3mm x 2mm x 30mm
Cone ENT speculum with silicon tube fixing
length 155mm
weight 2,60g
CoG 38%

second dart
Brass tip 3mm, 1,29g
Carbon rod 2mm x 125mm
Cone ENT speculum with silicon tube fixing

length 160mm
weight 2,32g
CoG 40%

Both darts on 18m

fqt7-7u-6392.jpg

Michel
 

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You're using smaller shaft diameters, I do think the one I made was a bit of an over kill on the shaft size the weight is 3.3 grams. I'm trying to make one that is 3.3 grams and 4-5" long with CoG @ 35% without making it to long. Noticing a little tail spin on mine about 75' out CoG < 1/3 rd. I think it's happens when it starts to loose power from blowing and it's reaching terminal speed. I try and play around this weekend and see how it goes.

Thanks for the added info !!
 

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Yes, that sounds good I'll try 40% CoG also. It's hard to make one with a 3.3 grain total weight with a graphite tube shaft sorter than 6"(152mm) and balance @ 40 % CoG. To make it shorter the tip needs to be thinner and longer to have a sorter shaft length. Very interesting.............. :cool:
 

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My new Brass Tip Darts, will be test fire this week @ +75 feet distances.

Brass tip 1.30 grams.
Carbon tube 1/8" OD x 1/16" ID x 4" L.

Cone Mabis speculum with nylon tube fixing 5/32" OD x 7/16" ID x .17" L two each.

Total length 5.55".
Total weight 2.9 grams.
CoG 38.56% .

 

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Two piece brass tip construction I used CA instead of soldering. The holding tool is made of brass tubing and rod and weight is exactly 20 grams. I can tune in the weight by sanding and checking the tip on my gram scale by subtracting the 20 grams. To release the CA tip from the holding tool I heat the tips base with a small torch and pull off with a plier.

[sharedmedia=gallery:albums:20]
 

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My new Dart inspired by the Slingshot man himself

I call it the X-Wing (a concept design dart) ........... not recommend to shoot in expensive blowguns may scratch the inside of barrel, but so far it hasn't done so in my electrical conduit blowgun.

Updated: I rounded over the small wings (are actually levers to open cutting wings) to help prevent scratching the inside of the bore when firing.

I need to fine tune the head weight down a bit maybe skeletonizing it. Hoping you Hunters out there like it.............
t.gif
it should do a lot of internal damage.

[sharedmedia=gallery:albums:21]
 

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Thats is a wicked design GKU !! What did you use for the retractable blades?? This whould make a super hunting dart..What kind of distance are you getting whith them?? Good ideas keep up the great work, and thanks.
 

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Thats is a wicked design GKU !! What did you use for the retractable blades?? This whould make a super hunting dart..What kind of distance are you getting whith them?? Good ideas keep up the great work, and thanks.
Hello Raptor,

This was a last minute attempt I consider this a protocol version. I had to improvise on the parts the main tip is a cut off of a 16 penny common nail and the retractable blades were fashioned from a thin fender washer. The pins are cut offs of flag wire (or tempered wire) and used for the main shaft also.

I usually test fire @ 42 feet but the point (tip) is a little heavy I'm aiming a bit to hi for my likings. I need to lighting it by drilling out 3 holes or so in descending hole sizes. I will post an update when I do a fine tuning adjustment to the CoG.

Thanks for having interest in my dart(s) !! :thumbsu:
 

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Update on X-Wing dart:

I drill out three holes and changed the cone to a shorter one (2"). The CoG is now 34% with a total weight of 4.8 grams and 7 " long. The small wings (levers) are .5" wide closed and rounded over to help prevent scratching the bore and 1" wings when open with chisel sharp edges. On impact this will gives a 1" cut on the inside after penetrating the skin. With just a hole on the outside going in, no visible cut marks on the surface. But on the inside ............

The cool thing also is that in the open position it can't fit in the .625 bore. This gives greater potential to the .625, instead of limiting the maximum broad head width that can fit in a .625 bore.

Hope you Hunters like it, it works great !! ............... the devil made me do it . :devil:

 

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Thanks for the details GKU. And nice job with the new revisions to your X-Wing dart looks super keep up the great work!! and thanks again
 

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Here are a few of in my nail dart category. Been experimenting with different colors of duct tape for ease

of target shooting outside.
I'm curious, normally when I make duct tape cones the top of the cone is not trimmed until AFTER I have placed the cone onto the dart and is the last step of the process using the BG or same size pipe as a size guide for where on the cone to cut it to final length. Yet here in your photos your cones appear to already have been trimmed. How are you making the cones? IE how are you trimming them before they are put on the dart to get them symmetrical and properly aligned?
 

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Hello All,

I've not made any such fancy darts as I'm very limited with the type of tools and equipment at my disposal to use. I have many tools to use in Canada at my home there but BG's are illegal there so I can only do blowgunning while here in Mexico while here for the winter.

Here is a sample of the paper dart I have been making with a two inch section of hardwood dowel that has been cut, sharpened to a point and then rolled into the paper dart and glued as a weighted tip. The darts fly very well and are cheap to make. I'm going to try to make the same darts using a plastic film instead of paper like those used in competition target shooting in Japan so as not to be so susceptible to barrel moisture.

My camera is old and the clarity is poor but I think you will be able to get the idea of what I have done with these paper darts. I thought I had an original idea but then I see others on here have made similar ones too. Great minds think alike I see, lol.

I'm also playing with duct tape/nail darts. So far I've tried standard flat headed 2 1/2 inch nails with duct tape cones but some seem to waggle badly while others seem to fly well. Perhaps a longer nail is needed for the shaft?

Here is the paper type with wooden tip.
 

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Your paper cone wooden darts looks good ! They must last and be accurate also.

I try Duct tape before with 6-8 D common galvanized nails, the cones were 1/3 ratio and need to be fitted right. If they where to big it would make a louder pop leaving the pipe. This is an indication that it is to large of a diameter and can cause it to wobble on the way to the target. A slight trimming down is the usual cure.

tip: I also filled the empty void inside with a piece of tape that was tapered, than sided the cone over. This affects the accuracy once it gets smashed in so that is what I did to help it fly better.
 

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Am I the only one that is using a combination of paper inside for stiffness and light duct tape or clear packing tape outside for my cones?

Looks like I'll have to dig the camera out.
 
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