Blowguns Forum banner
61 - 80 of 83 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
165 Posts
Am I the only one that is using a combination of paper inside for stiffness and light duct tape or clear packing tape outside for my cones?

Looks like I'll have to dig the camera out.
From your response above I am assuming you mean taking a paper dart like those of mine above and putting a layer of packing tape over the outside to give them more strength and protect them from the moisture inside the barrel? Would love to see the pics.

One other method I've tried is to simply coat the new dart cones with fingernail polish. It gives the cones a water proof coating and adds more strength without making the cone stiff.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
510 Posts
Am I the only one that is using a combination of paper inside for stiffness and light duct tape or clear packing tape outside for my cones?

Looks like I'll have to dig the camera out.

From your response above I am assuming you mean taking a paper dart like those of mine above and putting a layer of packing tape over the outside to give them more strength and protect them from the moisture inside the barrel? Would love to see the pics.

One other method I've tried is to simply coat the new dart cones with fingernail polish. It gives the cones a water proof coating and adds more strength without making the cone stiff.
I have made paper cones and sprayed them with paint and also poly to make them more durable. I found that it was easier to make a new cone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
The one on the lift has one reverse lair of brown packing tape and one clear packing tape on the outside. A little lighter that the double one to the right and is more slippery going through the bore and more resistant to moisture. It's not as stiff as but oaky. IMO, stiffer cone seem to me to have a lot better accuracy down range (+30') then cones that flexes with that loader pop sound it make coming out of the muzzle.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Not exactly, I start with aprox 1.5" x 1.5" square of paper, put a similar or slightly larger piece of tape on one side and roll it into a cone.

First pic, 1.5" paper square with piece of duct tape attached on one side ready to roll.

cone1.jpg


Second pic has the paper rolled into a cone around my thumb. At this point you can make it any shape you like. Long and narrow, short and fat, or somewhere inbetween.

cone2.jpg


As long as the tape you use is wider than the paper, it should always cover it completely.

cone3.jpg


And here is a finished cone, ready to be marked and trimmed and glued. Takes longer to take the pictures than it does to roll up the cone.

cone4.jpg


Ready to be trimmed to size and mounted on your dart of choice.

Paper gives it stiffness, tape gives it water resistance and flexibility.

And doing them the way I showed makes it very fast and easy to do with this big fat old fingers of mine.

I've tried several kinds of paper, mostly what I use is post it notepad cut into pieces.

I've tried several kinds of tape, mostly what I use is plain jane gray duct tape.

For darts that I want to remain perfectly centered and last a long time I'll mist the inside paper lightly then drop in a couple drops of gorilla glue. It foams up locking it into a solid mass filling the cone halfway or more. Just make sure you have it straight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
IMHO, I'm not nocking your cones they look great !

"We tried all kinds of paper with all kinds of outer options and came to settle on the above, but I like the double brown card board packing tape cone the best. Very stiff and resistant to moisture, witch is a variable that does affect the accuracy of the dart used with. It changes the CoG of the dart enough to cause POI shifts down range with fliers. The paper insert tape cone that I made absorbed to much moisture so we gave that up about a year ago.

But, that's comparing tape cones. So far the best cone is the specula cones. Ever since I'm convinced the it is the most accurate cone so far. Accuracy is not the only thing, it's everything IMO."
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
165 Posts
GKU, I too am of that opinion that accuracy is "everything"! Granted I also like cheap and easily replaceable cones to for practice and hunting...........but if I can't hit what I'm shooting at because of a poorly constructed dart or simply a dart of inferior design What's the point? LOL Pun intended. I'm always searching for new ways and different methods of making cones because I am always on the search for better accuracy. I also love the sport of archery for those reasons. There is always something to tweak or adjust to make it just a little bit better.

I have watched this video several times now
and I'm convinced this guy is really onto something with his helical twist cones especially for hunting situations as the twist would definitely help overcome the "sail" affect broad heads can have on a dart or arrow when not properly aligned. I really want to try this method for myself but I am going to have to wait until I am back home again where I have to tools to make the forms etc.

Has anyone here tried this type of cone making with a twist?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
510 Posts
The one on the lift has one reverse lair of brown packing tape and one clear packing tape on the outside. A little lighter that the double one to the right and is more slippery going through the bore and more resistant to moisture. It's not as stiff as but oaky. IMO, stiffer cone seem to me to have a lot better accuracy down range (+30') then cones that flexes with that loader pop sound it make coming out of the muzzle.
These cones look great! I am liking the idea of using multipe tape types.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
510 Posts
Not exactly, I start with aprox 1.5" x 1.5" square of paper, put a similar or slightly larger piece of tape on one side and roll it into a cone.

First pic, 1.5" paper square with piece of duct tape attached on one side ready to roll.

cone1.jpg


Second pic has the paper rolled into a cone around my thumb. At this point you can make it any shape you like. Long and narrow, short and fat, or somewhere inbetween.

cone2.jpg


As long as the tape you use is wider than the paper, it should always cover it completely.

cone3.jpg


And here is a finished cone, ready to be marked and trimmed and glued. Takes longer to take the pictures than it does to roll up the cone.

cone4.jpg


Ready to be trimmed to size and mounted on your dart of choice.

Paper gives it stiffness, tape gives it water resistance and flexibility.

And doing them the way I showed makes it very fast and easy to do with this big fat old fingers of mine.

I've tried several kinds of paper, mostly what I use is post it notepad cut into pieces.

I've tried several kinds of tape, mostly what I use is plain jane gray duct tape.

For darts that I want to remain perfectly centered and last a long time I'll mist the inside paper lightly then drop in a couple drops of gorilla glue. It foams up locking it into a solid mass filling the cone halfway or more. Just make sure you have it straight.
This is a great idea! I usially do two layers of tape ... but one layer of paper would make the cone much lighter I imagine. Plus the paper gives it rigidity.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
As a clarifying point almost all my shooting to date has been indoors at short ranges, 5-8m. So how well my style would do on long range is a very good question.

It is IMO a quick and easy way to make cones that work pretty well.

The speculum cones with a custom cutter can out perform them I'm sure.

But part of the equation for me needs to include time spent making. These are super quick and easy.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
510 Posts
My least favorite part about making cones is trimming them to the correct size to fit the barrel. Does anyone have any tricks up their sleeves to make this process quicker and easier?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
My least favorite part about making cones is trimming them to the correct size to fit the barrel. Does anyone have any tricks up their sleeves to make this process quicker and easier?
The video posted previously has a couple jigs in it for trimming the cones down to the correct size. I'm going to make one myself as soon as I can, can't stand doing it the way I'm using now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Melted down the broad head darts that come with the CS blowguns, used the cones for forms and decided to attach the broad heads to the bamboo darts that come with the blowgun too. Just have to sharpen them up and straighten some of the shafts and I'm set!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
165 Posts
My least favorite part about making cones is trimming them to the correct size to fit the barrel. Does anyone have any tricks up their sleeves to make this process quicker and easier?
My method is not the greatest but it's a whole lot better than marking them and cutting with scissors. I made two sacrificial cones and put them point to point forming an hour glass shape and taped them together to hold them in that position. I then slid them into a section of barrel. The idea is that the open end of the upper most cone holds the point of the shaft in roughly the centre of the bore while the cone is trimmed with a box cutter or other really sharp knife.

Rather than using cones as I did, I'd recommend using a section of dowel reduced in diameter to snugly fit into the bore so it holds itself firm but can also be pushed in one direction up or down within the bore section to allow for different lengths of shaft. Push the new dart and cones down into the bore until the dart's cone comes in full contact with the bore, then trim off the excess cone.

Edit;

I forgot to mention that the dowel piece should have a hole bored in it's centre large enough to accept the size of dart shaft that will be used with the dart you are trimming. If you make a small enough hole in the dowel and don't trim your cones until after the point has been sharpened, the shafts will self centre themselves in the small hole in the dowel while trimming the opposite end at the cone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
165 Posts
Melted down the broad head darts that come with the CS blowguns, used the cones for forms and decided to attach the broad heads to the bamboo darts that come with the blowgun too. Just have to sharpen them up and straighten some of the shafts and I'm set!
Try sharpening the broad head blades only on one side and the same side of each blade, this will impart a spin to the dart and reduce the group size with broad head darts. Thats why it's always recommended to use helical vanes on arrows using broadheads. The rotation of the arrow minimizes the affect the blades of the broad head can have on the flight of the arrow. in the case of a dart, the only vanes you have really are the blades of the broad head. Spin them and I'm pretty sure you will have smaller groups. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
I try making twist cones and could not get the dart rear end to stop wobbling (looping) when it was twirling around, causing poor accuracy after about +25'. I also notice that it would loose distance and not go as far, it ran out of gas down range prematurely. :growl:

Milk jug cones was hard to make them constantly, well for me anyway. The length and shape we solved but the weight was a problem to get them all the same. They varied by about + and - .08 grams witch had an effect on the CoG. Brown packing tape cones are all exactly the same length, shape and weight, .55 grams each. They are extremely accurate up to 100', a 5 shot grouping about the size of a CD. Oh, and they last long and are very cheep and easy to make. With my setup I can pump out 100 exact cones in an hour.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
I know it's a pain in the --- to make all the jigs but, after that it's all good. A cookie cutter process all consistently the same !

Consistency is the key to good accuracy the one doesn't exist without the other. The road to accuracy is a very long one and can be cut sorter with the jig making. The short cut road to inaccuracy is even longer ...........

Thank for the great replies I appreciate it !
Also, Good Job Everybody keep it coming !

I recommend a 1.875" - 2" mandrel for a 1/3 ratio cone for a .625" bore. For good balance between range power and minimum side area to have less side pushing from the wind from having to long of a cone. CU ~ GKU

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
165 Posts
I try making twist cones and could not get the dart rear end to stop wobbling (looping) when it was twirling around, causing poor accuracy after about +25'. I also notice that it would loose distance and not go as far, it ran out of gas down range prematurely. :growl:

Milk jug cones was hard to make them constantly, well for me anyway. The length and shape we solved but the weight was a problem to get them all the same. They varied by about + and - .08 grams witch had an effect on the CoG. Brown packing tape cones are all exactly the same length, shape and weight, .55 grams each. They are extremely accurate up to 100', a 5 shot grouping about the size of a CD. Oh, and they last long and are very cheep and easy to make. With my setup I can pump out 100 exact cones in an hour.
Thats fast work! It takes me that long after the first cone just to get all the tape off my fingers toes and nose before I can start again on the second cone! lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
to make your darts spin more, use 3/16 square pieces of 'boo. heat them up to 200+ deg F and twist them once twice.

Hold them until cool(like 30 seconds).

they will stay twisted.

Sorta kinda acts like rifling.

Another way is to actually rifle your blowgun barrel(PVC).

make a metal blade sorta like a broadhead, and slowly spin it and push it down the tube. do it several times. It actually works.

Tyvek is waterproof and makes great cones. Doesn't even need a tape coating.
 
61 - 80 of 83 Posts
Top