2. They have about 40% of their cross section that has no edge associated at all and closer to 70% if you consider where the edge is parallel to the shaft and not widening the wound channel. That is a lot of area trying to destabilize your dart.
3. If you try it shoot some melon or at least a few apples or oranges and let us know how they fly for accuracy and if they enter the target straight in.
I am thinking personally to only use steel tipped and steel shaft hunting darts for uses beyond small game. I can afford the commercial broadheads in the quantities I would ever use easier than I can build my own designs.
The do look like a very wicked tip for at least the front 1/4 to 1/3 of the blade length.
at $3.50 for 50 count they fit a narrow wire. Probably 1.2mm and they may fall off the wire if pulled on. You can get them as complete darts and attach the shaft and cone to your mini broadheads or to extend in front of a stun dart. I do not recommend broadheads generally though.
As always Ridge, thank you the well thought out reply!
#1 These are a bit more expensive than other styles of Xacto blades, so experimentation woill be limited
#2 Proposed attachment method? Split the sharp end of a bamboo skewer, insert blade and super glue or haft with thread or both.
#3 Wound channel problem...if you could use a thicker skewer and split it one direction, insert blade, haft, then split it 90° to that and have 2 (probably too heavy) blades in a cross pattern one in front of the other similar to bleeder blades on archery broadheads...
Bamboo projectiles are subject to bending and changing their curvature based on changes in moisture content as well as stress from hitting firm targets and from being removed from having been embedded in targets. Splitting the skewer will increase opportunities for the shaft to deform and fail. Shorter bamboo may help with exception of having less mass to push the broadhead.
A misaligned broadhead will exert a force on the dart that makes it less stable and less aerodynamically efficient. It will slow down sooner and might flip sideways in some cases.
Bamboo is pretty light so it will not push your broadhead as deeply into the wound as a heavier shaft would. I am guessing here but think optimum hunting projectile weight for .625 projectiles seems to be 60 to 120 grains in a 5' BG, for a .50 it might be 50-100 grains in a 8' BG and for a .40 perhaps 40-80 grains in a 10-12' BG.
If using bigger skewers as dowels the dynamic will surely change. You will likely want to have the CA glue absorb much of a double split shaft. I wonder how flexible or brittle the resulting projectile would be.
Have you considered using shafts from toy arrows or a youth archery set for your dart body? Too large diameter? I have some 6.8mm or .27 caliber. Perhaps glass tent poles?
What do you think JB weld or epoxy to a steel dart shaft would perform like? I am assuming brazing is beyond your current resources.
How about embedding the tip into a stun dart? Penetration would be limited.
If you are doing this for the reward of the exercise I see it as interesting. If purely for performance for one person's arsenal I would buy commercially available broadheads.
This is a 15 inch dowel with a #23 exacto attached with krazy glue.. I CAN'T BELIEVE all the discussion and theoretical bullshit back and forth over this. The #23 exactos are a great broad head choice. Very easy to shape, and use with bamboo skewers or dowels. They work very well.